If there is one dish that defines the Kingdom of Bhutan, it is Ema Datshi. In Dzongkha (the national language), Ema means "chili" and Datshi means "cheese." But to call it simply "chili cheese" is an understatement. This rich, spicy stew is not a side dish or a dip—it is the main event, eaten by locals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Whether you are a culinary adventurer looking to test your spice tolerance or a home cook seeking a unique vegetarian comfort food, this guide covers everything you need to know about the world's most famous Himalayan stew.

What is Ema Datshi?

Ema Datshi is a stew made primarily of two ingredients: chili peppers and cheese. Unlike most of the world, where chilies are used as a seasoning, in Bhutan, they are treated as a vegetable. They are the bulk of the dish, simmered until tender and coated in a savory, creamy cheese sauce.

Cultural Significance

• The National Identity: It is said that if you haven't tasted Ema Datshi, you haven't actually visited Bhutan. It represents the Bhutanese philosophy of simplicity—using locally available, hearty ingredients to survive the cold Himalayan climate.

• Communal Dining: It is almost always served with Bhutanese Red Rice, a nutty, nutrient-rich grain that balances the heat of the stew.

• Symbol of Resilience: The dish highlights the resourcefulness of Bhutanese agriculture, utilizing dairy from yaks or cows and chilies that are dried on rooftops to last through the winter.

The Taste Profile: What to Expect

• Heat: Intense. Since chilies are the main vegetable, the spice level is high. (Don't worry, we have tips below to adjust this).

• Texture: The sauce is creamy and soup-like, not thick and stringy like fondue. The chilies should be soft but retain their skin's texture.

• Flavor: It is a punch of savory umami from the cheese, fresh grassy notes from the chilies, and a rich mouthfeel from the butter.

Authentic Ema Datshi Recipe

Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 20 mins | Serves: 2-3

Ingredients

• Chilies (250g): Traditionally, a mix of green and dried red chilies.

  • Substitute: Thai bird's eye (very hot), Serrano (medium), or Jalapeño (mild) for beginners.

• Cheese (1 cup):

  • Authentic: Datshi (a soft, fermented cow or yak cheese).

  • Best Global Substitute: A mix of Feta (for the sour tang) and processed cheese slices (for the melting consistency). Blue cheese is also a great addition to mimic the fermented flavor of authentic Datshi.

• Onion: 1/2 medium onion, sliced lengthwise.

• Garlic: 3 cloves, crushed.

• Tomato: 1 small tomato (optional, but common in home recipes).

• Butter: 2 tablespoons (unsalted).

• Water: 1.5 cups.

• Salt: To taste (be careful if using Feta).

Instructions

1. Prep the Chilies: Wash the chilies and slice them lengthwise into quarters. Pro Tip: If you want to reduce the heat, remove the seeds and white pith (placenta) from the inside.

2. Combine Ingredients: In a pot, add the chilies, onions, tomato, garlic, water, and vegetable oil (if using). Do not fry them.

3. Boil: Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Let it simmer on medium heat for about 10–12 minutes until the chilies are tender.

4. Add the "Datshi": reduce the heat to low. Add the butter and your cheese mixture.

5. The "No-Stir" Rule: This is controversial, but many locals suggest letting the cheese melt for 2–3 minutes before stirring. This prevents the sauce from becoming grainy. Once melted, gently fold everything together.

6. Serve: Pour over a mound of red rice (or brown rice/quinoa if red rice is unavailable).

Popular Variations of "Datshi"

If pure chili stew is too intimidating, you can try these popular, milder "cousins" of Ema Datshi:

Kewa Datshi - Potatoes (Kewa) Cheese (Datshi): Mild, creamy, and comforting. Similar to scalloped potatoes. Great for kids.

Shamu Datshi - Shamu (Mushroom): Earthy and rich. The mushrooms soak up the cheese sauce beautifully.

Shakam Datshi - Dried Beef (Shakam): Chewy, smoky, and intense. Uses preserved beef jerky.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Is Ema Datshi really that spicy?

Yes, the authentic version is extremely spicy. In Bhutan, chilies are vegetables, not just seasoning. A standard bowl of Ema Datshi is essentially a bowl of peppers.

2. How am I supposed to eat ema datshi?

Etiquette:

• Don't eat it alone: It is meant to be a side dish/stew accompanying a massive portion of Red Rice. The rice dilutes the heat.

• Mix it in: You typically spoon a bit of the stew and cheese sauce onto your rice and mix it by hand (or with a spoon) before taking a bite.

• Utensils: While locals often eat with their hands (using the right hand only), forks and spoons are standard in all hotels and restaurants for travelers.

3. I can't handle spice at all. Should I skip it?

Don't skip the experience, just swap the dish. If you are terrified of the heat, order Kewa Datshi instead. It uses the same delicious cheese sauce but swaps the chilies for potatoes. It is basically a Bhutanese scalloped potato—mild, creamy, and safe for everyone (including kids).

4. Is Ema Datshi vegetarian or vegan?

• Vegetarian: Yes. It is 100% vegetarian (Chilies + Cheese + Butter).

• Vegan: No. It is heavy on dairy.

• Lactose Intolerant Warning: Bhutanese cheese is often less processed than Western cheese, but it is still dairy. If you are sensitive to lactose, proceed with caution or bring digestive aids.

5. Will it give me stomach issues?

Hygiene-wise: Bhutanese food is generally very safe, especially in certified tourist hotels. Spice-wise: This is the bigger risk. If your stomach isn't used to capsaicin (chili heat), you might experience cramping or heartburn.

6. Can I buy "Datshi" cheese to take home?

Yes, but it's tricky.

Hard Cheese (Chugo): You will see strings of rock-hard dried cheese cubes in markets. These are for chewing like gum, not for cooking Ema Datshi.

Soft Cheese: The cheese used for cooking is soft and perishable. It is difficult to transport internationally without refrigeration. It is better to buy processed cheese or feta when you get back home to replicate the taste.

7. What is the best drink to pair with it?

To combat the fire, locals drink Suja (Butter Tea) or Ara (local rice wine).

• Tourist favorite: A cold local beer (like Druk 11000 or Red Panda) pairs perfectly with the spicy, salty cheese.